"just
a ferry ride from Salt Spring, but a
world away..."
"from
glaciers and mountains to temperate
valleys and craggy coast, (British
Columbia) is arguably the most beautiful
of Canada's ten provinces. Separated
from the rest of Canada by the Rockies,
and extending all the way to the
Pacific, BC is all but a country apart
— politically, geographically, and
socially. Two-thirds of the province,
which encompasses an area greater than
California, Oregon, and Washington
combined, is mountainous, and nearly
that much (60%) is forest. Just 4
million people populate this natural
wonderland, and half of them live in
Greater Vancouver. Just a ferry
ride from Salt Spring, but a world
away."
Carl
Duncan
About
Salt Spring Island
"Just 20 miles northwest of
Washington State's San Juans, Salt Spring is the largest and most accessible of British
Columbia's Gulf Islands. . . the island enjoys the best weather in Canada, a microclimate
fondly called the Banana Belt."
Excerpted from Island
of Clear Appeal, by Carl Duncan, distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.
"Last year 200,000 visitors arrived on the island. With
daily float planes from Vancouver and Seattle into Ganges Harbor on the islands east
side, and convenient ferry service from Vancouver Island and the mainland, getting here
has never been easier or quicker.
Long Canada's most famous artist haven (home to wildlife painter Robert Bateman among
others), Salt Spring -- 18 miles long; population 10,000 -- also is becoming one of its
most popular tourist destinations. People from all over the world are drawn by the
island's idyllic countryside, its dramatic maritime scenery and refreshing rural pace.
There's a multitude of studios and galleries, abundant outdoor activities, and
accommodations with character (mainly B&Bs or cabins and cottages).
Salt Spring has the oldest farm in all of British Columbia. Much of the original
farmstead, including four miles of shoreline, has been made into a 1,200-acre provincial
park with first-come first-served walk-in campsites. Ruckle Park occupies a good chunk of
land on Beaver Point, just beyond Fulford Harbor on the island's southeast corner. Every
spring, during lambing and planting season, islanders and early-season visitors gather for
Family Day, a free open-house on the farm and surrounding parklands. There's a
lamb-petting pen for the kids, weaving and black smith demonstrations, a horse-drawn
ploughing competition... and long lines at the barbecue grill (proceeds benefit the local
Lions Club).
The original family home, built by Henry Ruckle in 1877, still proudly stands (among other
heritage structures), near the apple orchard behind the barn.
Although Henry Ruckle was one of Salt Spring's early pioneers, he was not the first. The
first were Americans who arrived 20 years earlier in 1857 -- nine slaves who had purchased
their freedom and were looking to make a fresh start in a new land. A schooner from
Victoria dropped them off in what is now called Vesuvius Bay on Salt Springs
northwestern shore. The island was totally uninhabited. Native people used the beaches
only for seasonal fishing and fowl hunts.
The early settlers also included Hawaiians (Kanakas as they proudly called themselves,
Polynesian for "human being"). William Naukana, born in 1813, was the first
Hawaiian to arrive. After years exploring in the north with the Hudson Bay Co., he
eventually settled on Salt Spring, bringing other Hawaiians with him. Naukana's
descendants (and those of other Kanaka families) still live here today. Hawaiian graves
can be seen in the little cemetery at Fulford's St. Paul's Church, built in 1885. The
island's first church, it is still in use.
By 1900, Salt Spring had 80 farms and its first traveler's inn. All this was not long ago.
Many of the family names in the history books can be found in the phone book today. The
west coast pioneer spirit is still here, too. With all its artiness, Salt Spring has not
allowed itself to become gentrified. Lots of working farms produce the lamb and pork and
organic vegetables found in local restaurants. In Ganges Village, gum boots and pick-up
trucks are just as common as deck shoes and Volvos."
Excerpted with permission from Island
of Clear Appeal, by Carl Duncan, distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.